Chacra Millalen

El Hoyo, Chubut, Argentina. It is full on BEAUTIFUL here!! I’m in love with this place. It reminds me so much of places I’ve been in Washington, Montana or Oregon. The bus ride here from Buenos Aires was across the entirety of central Argentina (most of which was at night) and while some that we saw rivaled the barrenness of central Washington, randomly a few beautiful lakes would appear to spice it up. The last few hours we traveled through beautiful snow covered mountain ranges, again with lakes dotting the landscape.
Now the farm! They have about 15 hectares, part of which is pasture land for 2 cows and 3 horses. The rest is orchard, garden and grounds. Right in our back yard are many snow covered peaks that are just begging us to explore (if I had only brought my skis!!). The place functions as a large garden/fruit orchard and what you might call a small cabin/retreat center /camp / community. Our hosts, Josephine, Fabio and their 14 yr old son Juan, have their own house, slightly separate from the main area. There is a community building with a kitchen and group eating area (for about 40 people) where we have most of our meals, although we are only 5-8 folks right now. Above and attached are 2 separate sleeping quarters and 3 bathrooms they rent out to tourists. We are staying in a small house, fully equipped with kitchen, bathroom, one bedroom and 4 bunks in the living room. It’s very comfortable and so nice to be able to settle in. There is another house that they use for over winter rental and summer per day rentals. Lastly, there is one more sleeping area, for about 3-4 people, above the large cellar/pantry building. Right now, a friend who has been living here for about 7 years is using it until his house is ready on his own property, about 25 km away. All of the buildings have been built and are maintained by Fabio.
In the beginning, they used to host more large groups but now it is mainly used by tourists and volunteers like us. At various times, they have long term residents sharing in their endeavors. Josephine does most of the cooking, but we are getting into the groove of making some meals ourselves. We try to incorporate as much produce from the farm as we can, so although they purchase grains, spices, cheese, etc. Every meal so far has included what could grow over the winter….carrots, lettuce, spinach, leeks, chard. All very fresh and crisp and wonderful!! There are 70 or so garden beds (3-4ft X 25-30ft), tons of raspberries, and fruit and nut trees: peach, apple, elderberry, quince, plum, and walnut.
In the surrounding area, there are cabanas galore for tourism, which seems to be local tourism, i.e. people getting away from the cities to spend a few nights in the country. Beyond that, this area is known for its fruit production. Every few km is another place advertising jams and artisan products. A little like you might find in the San Juans. The farm here is also into that production and one of their main supporting endeavors beyond selling their fresh, organic produce is to sell their jams, vinegars, teas, and essences.
Life here is more developed than other areas we’ve been so far. I’d say 2nd world on the verge of 1st. I’m sure there is still poverty, but far less rampant than Ecuador and Peru. Houses are complete with roofs AND windows!
Everyday so far has been beautifully sunny with the crisp morning air of early spring. We feel very comfortable and at home here – this is definitely a place we were supposed to come! - Cinnamon